The exposure time should be as short as possible to freeze the movement on the image. Some Nikon cameras also offer the possibility of 3D tracking, which also takes the colour of the objects into account and also “rediscovers ” them when they get out of focus temporarily. With Nikon this mode is called AF-C (Autofocus-Continous) and with Canon it is called AI-Servo.
Adjusting to the tracking autofocus or the automatic focus adjustment is recommended. If the autofocus is too slow it may become a problem. Since the birds do not wait for their cue, all relevant camera settings should be adjusted before the start of the photo session.įocussing a flying bird is not easy because of the varying background and the changing distances. Ideally, photographers align themselves with the sun behind them. A good compromise between flexibility and stability can also be achieved with a simple monopod. These are however expensive and a bit of an exaggeration for a hobby photographer who occasionally wants to swivel the tripod head.
For professionals there are tripods with so-called cardan heads, which function like a swing. Depending on the weight of the camera and the specific purpose, a tripod can be either useful or a hindrance. Opinions vary regarding the use of a tripod. With shorter focal lengths, it is possible to take pictures, as long as you can get close enough to the birds, i.e. Depending on the crop factor, focal lengths of 300 to 500 mm are generally recommended. A DSLR with a fast telephoto lens is still the best choice for bird photography.
With a bridge camera and a zoom lens, you can give slower birds a try. Although many things are possible with the handy companions – flying birds cannot be photographed with a smartphone or a compact camera – and at best as distant black dots.